Life Outside PLT1

Cups of Brown Joy: Harney Teas, Black and White

June 10, 2008 on 5:58 pm | In Food | | arbscht

For lack of content, it seemed like a good idea to post reviews of teas. We’ll begin what could become a series (if I bother) with a double-review.

Our two flavours are both from Harney Teas: Big Red Sun and Winter White Earl Grey. Big Red Sun is a bold black blend of Kenya and Ceylon, while Winter White Earl Grey is a subtle Chinese white tea with lemony bergamot. They represent an interesting contrast — in fact, two opposite ends of the tea spectrum — so I thought they would be a good way to sample Harney’s teas.

---

But first, let’s consider the peripherals. I bought Harney’s Tagalong tins, which are handy little discs containing five tea bags each. The tea bags are silken pouches (no paper or staples) containing full loose leaves to brew two cups each.

This seems to be a good package for the occasional tea-drinker, since it removes the hassle of maintaining a large quantity of loose leaf tea, while also being convenient to brew, and without compromising leaf quality. There are larger tins of 20 bags also available.

A note about price: each tin currently costs about $7 (NZD), so a bag works out to about $1.50 — or 75 cents per cup. The larger tins work out to $1.00 per bag. A reasonable bargain, I think, given the quality of the product, as we’ll see now.

---

First, the Big Red Sun. The description on the back says it is a “full-bodied yet mellow tea”, a blend of Kenya and Kenilworth, and “reminiscent of Assam”.

Visually, its portliness is instantly evident as milk mixes satisfyingly smoothly. The first taste feels almost creamy, followed by a fairly strong hit of Ceylon. The flavours are characteristally intense through the first cup, and moreso the second. I’m not sure I’d call it wholly mellow. It is a stout black tea at its core, with a soft edge, definitely akin to Assam.

I took it for afternoon tea, which might not be its ideal use. As per the description, “it is a great way to welcome the sun”. It would make for a great weekend wake-me-up drink to have with or after a light breakfast. I wouldn’t take it before breakfast; that would overwhelm the tastebuds.

---

Secondly, let’s consider the Winter White Earl Grey. Simply described as a combination of “healthy white tea and natural lemony bergamot”, it promises a subtler, lighter experience.

Brewing white tea is a little more challenging as one needs “less than boiling water”, and there is more room for varying its steeping time to taste. I decided to steep it for six minutes in slightly cooled boiled water.

The result was an almost imperceptibly fragrant, glassy amber fluid. It was worthy of drinking without milk and sugar as any additives could disproportionately distort the flavour.

The first taste was a mild challenge to the tastebuds, but unlike regular Earl Grey teas that bite more. The lemony overtone dominates initially, waning as the tea cooled further. I found the white tea easy to savour, and at the same time thoroughly refreshing.

Since the brew begins with somewhat cooled water, it becomes drinkably warm quickly. I can imagine how that fact, along with the gentle yet spry flavour, would make it fantastic to have in cold weather.

However, due to its less than memorable strength, I didn’t feel as though two cups were sufficient for afternoon tea. I guess it would go better in the evening, perhaps around dinner.

---

To wrap this up, I’m convinced that Harney’s teas are excellent, as much for their high-quality flavours as their convenient packaging. Both the Big Red Sun and the Winter White Earl Grey are recommended to anyone looking for an uncommon but simple, sapid blend.

You can purchase Harney’s teas in New Zealand via HarneyTeas.co.nz, any of the stockists listed therein, or any good tea shop.

If you’re tired of tea, then you’re tired of life.

Elemental